Training Blog
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The Grip Your Hangboard Can't Train
Flat edges let you cheat on skin. Rolling edges don't. Claw grips force FDP to carry the load your half-crimp has been splitting with FDS. Neither one replaces a max...
The Grip Your Hangboard Can't Train
Flat edges let you cheat on skin. Rolling edges don't. Claw grips force FDP to carry the load your half-crimp has been splitting with FDS. Neither one replaces a max...
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Why Climbers Keep Blowing Pulleys and the Training Variable Most People Ignore
A 2025 study in BMJ Open Sport & Exercise Medicine found that nearly half of recreational climbers have had a pulley injury. That number isn't random. It follows from how...
Why Climbers Keep Blowing Pulleys and the Training Variable Most People Ignore
A 2025 study in BMJ Open Sport & Exercise Medicine found that nearly half of recreational climbers have had a pulley injury. That number isn't random. It follows from how...
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No-Hang Lift vs Hangboarding for Climbing... Which Builds Stronger Fingers?
No-hang lifts and hangboards both train finger strength. But they don't work the same way, and they're not interchangeable. The question isn't which tool is better — it's which one...
No-Hang Lift vs Hangboarding for Climbing... Which Builds Stronger Fingers?
No-hang lifts and hangboards both train finger strength. But they don't work the same way, and they're not interchangeable. The question isn't which tool is better — it's which one...
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How to Train Pinch Strength for Bouldering
Pinch strength is its own thing. Your hangboard doesn't train it, your crimp sessions don't develop it, and ignoring it doesn't make the pinch on your project go away. Here's...
How to Train Pinch Strength for Bouldering
Pinch strength is its own thing. Your hangboard doesn't train it, your crimp sessions don't develop it, and ignoring it doesn't make the pinch on your project go away. Here's...
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Hangboard Protocols Compared: Which One Matches Your Goal
There are a lot of ways to hang from your fingers and they all train something different. Max hangs, repeaters, density hangs, recruitment pulls, IntHangs, minimal edge, and Abrahangs compared...
Hangboard Protocols Compared: Which One Matches Your Goal
There are a lot of ways to hang from your fingers and they all train something different. Max hangs, repeaters, density hangs, recruitment pulls, IntHangs, minimal edge, and Abrahangs compared...
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CARCing: Off-Wall Endurance Training That Might Actually Work?
Build climbing endurance without touching the wall. CARCing trains your forearms at low intensity anywhere. Here's the science, a real self-experiment, and how to start.
CARCing: Off-Wall Endurance Training That Might Actually Work?
Build climbing endurance without touching the wall. CARCing trains your forearms at low intensity anywhere. Here's the science, a real self-experiment, and how to start.
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Your Spray Wall Hold Selection Is Probably Backwards
Most home spray walls end up as a random pile of holds that looked good in the online store but don't actually climb well together. You end up with 50...
Your Spray Wall Hold Selection Is Probably Backwards
Most home spray walls end up as a random pile of holds that looked good in the online store but don't actually climb well together. You end up with 50...
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How to Train Finger Strength at Home Without a Hangboard
You don't need a hangboard bolted above your doorframe to build stronger fingers. Hangboards are effective tools, but they require drilling into a load-bearing surface, which rules them out for...
How to Train Finger Strength at Home Without a Hangboard
You don't need a hangboard bolted above your doorframe to build stronger fingers. Hangboards are effective tools, but they require drilling into a load-bearing surface, which rules them out for...
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What is an unlevel edge and why use one?
Look at your hand. Put it flat on a table. Your middle finger sticks out past the ring finger, the index is shorter still, and your pinky barely keeps up....
What is an unlevel edge and why use one?
Look at your hand. Put it flat on a table. Your middle finger sticks out past the ring finger, the index is shorter still, and your pinky barely keeps up....
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The Perfect Bouldering Warmup
I watch it happen every single session. Someone walks in, sees the problem they've been working on all week, chalks up, and goes straight for it. Cold. No warmup. Nothing.
The Perfect Bouldering Warmup
I watch it happen every single session. Someone walks in, sees the problem they've been working on all week, chalks up, and goes straight for it. Cold. No warmup. Nothing.
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Why Finger Strength Is the Best Predictor of Your Bouldering Grade
You know that feeling when someone half your size floats up a problem you've been throwing yourself at for 20 minutes? It's tempting to blame technique or "climbing IQ" or...
Why Finger Strength Is the Best Predictor of Your Bouldering Grade
You know that feeling when someone half your size floats up a problem you've been throwing yourself at for 20 minutes? It's tempting to blame technique or "climbing IQ" or...
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Which Edge Is Best for Me? Your Complete Guide to Choosing the Right Training Edge
In a world of endless edge blocks and hangboards, our standard edges are designed to give you maximum training options with minimal setup. This guide breaks down how to choose...
Which Edge Is Best for Me? Your Complete Guide to Choosing the Right Training Edge
In a world of endless edge blocks and hangboards, our standard edges are designed to give you maximum training options with minimal setup. This guide breaks down how to choose...
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How to use our standard edges.
Choosing the right edge block can be confusing, so this guide compares our standard edge options side by side instead of treating them as a single tool. You’ll see how...
How to use our standard edges.
Choosing the right edge block can be confusing, so this guide compares our standard edge options side by side instead of treating them as a single tool. You’ll see how...
