This page is the practical “how we use Zodiac standard edges” guide: setups, orientations, and session roles. If you are still deciding depth or whether to go flat vs variable geometry, start with Which Edge Is Best for Me?
Standard edges are the workhorses of no-hang and lifting-edge training: known depths, simple geometry, loads you can log. They are not a personality test. They are a measurement tool you train on until the numbers move.
What “standard” means here
In our line, standard dual-edge blocks give you two useful depths on one tool so a single session can include a main lift and a secondary grip without swapping hardware. Progression edges extend that idea when you need smaller steps. Specialty shapes (unlevel, rolling RXE, recruitment-oriented depths) solve other problems. They do not replace a flat reference edge for testing.
- Dual Edge Block: default two-depth trainer for most climbers
- Progression Edges: controlled depth steps when you are ready to go smaller
- Unlevel Edge: when equal finger lengths are the issue (see why unlevel exists)
Setup that keeps numbers honest
Change one variable at a time: load or depth, not both.
- Use a centered loading point (pin or carabiner) so the block stays level.
- Pick one depth as your reference for the block (often ~20mm half crimp) and log load × hold × sets on that depth.
- Warm up on easier grips or lighter loads before work sets.
- Change one variable at a time: either load or depth, not both in the same jump.
How to use each side of a dual edge
| Role | Typical use |
|---|---|
| Main / numbers depth | Max or heavy lifts, 5–10 second holds, long rest. This is what you progress week to week. |
| Secondary depth | Open hand, lighter volume, or a slightly harder geometry after the main work, not a second max test in the same session. |
Session templates
- Warmeasy open / progressive
- Maintimed lifts on known depth
- Restfull between hard efforts
- Logload · grip · edge · hold
Strength (2× per week): warm-up → 4–6 × 6–8s on reference depth → optional 2–3 lighter sets on the second depth → stop.
Test day (every 6–8 weeks): same edge, same grip, same warm-up. Do not invent a new depth on test day. For protocol detail, see testing finger strength without fooling yourself.
When to leave “standard” for a specialty edge
- Uneven finger loading / fit complaints → unlevel (anatomy write-up + product why)
- Want anti-friction claw demand → RXE / rolling edge articles
- Want smaller depths without guessing → progression sets
For vocabulary (no-hang, block pull, pick-up), use the canonical terms glossary. For portable vs mounted buying decisions, see the buyer's guide.
Keep the standard edge boring and measurable. Specialty tools are for specific gaps, not for abandoning the reference that tells you whether you got stronger.