Measure it.
Plan it.
Log it.
The calculator turns one test into a number you can beat next time. The planner builds 9 or 12 weeks of bouldering around the days you have, and adjusts to what you log.
Finger strength calculator
Strong enough for your project?
Enter your bodyweight and your one-arm max lift on a 20mm edge. The calculator turns the ratio into the grade your fingers can support, and shows how much more you need to lift for the next one. Train a block, test again, and you know whether it moved.
Try it here
V6
Ratio 0.62×
V7 starts at a 0.63× ratio.
Example: 154 lbs, 95 lbs lift. Enter yours above.
+2 lbs
A ceiling, not a promise. Movement and other factors decide the rest.
Bouldering training plan
A bouldering plan built around your week.
Give your current climbing grade, the days you can climb and what's holding you back. You get 9 or 12 weeks of sessions, and each block adjusts from what you log.
It's a starting point, not a coach. With an injured finger, see a physical therapist before you start. Under 16 trains with a parent or guardian.
Build my planWeeks 1 to 4 · build
Weeks 5 to 8 · strength
Weeks 9 to 12 · perform
Week 6 · strength
Then dial it in
Log with a timer
Start a session and the timer counts every try and rest. Tap Send or No send to log each boulder.
Weekly check-in
Energy, fingers, sleep. Three answers at the end of each week, and next week pushes, holds or eases.
Not feeling 100%
Rest or go lighter for 3 to 14 days, then choose how fast to come back.
Swap a session
Short on time or gear? About an hour, easier, no board, or at home.
Outdoor days
Mark a day outside. It takes the week's limit session, and a hard day beside it turns to recovery.
Change the weeks ahead
New days, how fast it steps up and lighter weeks, from any week you haven't logged. Focus changes at weeks 5 and 9.
Test first, and the plan sets your loads.
Enter your tested max and the plan compares your fingers with your grade. At V6 with a hangboard, it sets your finger lift loads from it. Below V6, under two years of climbing or under 16, the plan leaves finger training out, and the field with it.
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Test your maxOne-arm lift on a 20mm edge. Left, then right, and use the average.
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Get your ratioThe calculator gives a ratio and a grade.
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Set your loadsType 62 into the plan. It compares your fingers with your grade, and at V6 sets your finger lift loads.
Free. No sign-up.
What we store
Anonymous usage. No login needed. Your data is saved in your browser.
On this device
Safari clears saved data after about a week away, so keep a backup.
Yours to keep
Back up to a file, export a PDF, or add it to your calendar.