There are two ways climbers "progress" on edges. One is adding weight on the same depth. The other is shrinking the edge. Both work. Mixing them randomly does not. The usual failure mode looks like this: solid on 20mm, bored, jumps to a tiny edge, tanks form, trashes skin, decides min-edge "doesn't work."
Progression edges are the boring fix. Instead of leapfrogging depths, you move through known intermediate sizes so load, skin, and joint comfort can keep up. The Macro & Micro Progression Edges and the full sets exist for that job: a ladder, not a cliff.
Depth vs. load: pick one primary dial
| Dial | What changes | Best when |
|---|---|---|
| Load (weight) | Force on a fixed geometry | You want clean strength numbers on a reference edge |
| Depth (edge size) | Geometry and skin/joint demand | You need smaller holds on rock and already own the larger depth |
For most training blocks, keep a reference depth (often ~20mm) where you track load. Use smaller edges as a secondary quality, not a weekly ego check. When a block's goal is min-edge capacity, reverse it: fix a light-to-moderate load (or bodyweight rules) and walk depth down the ladder.
Trying to PR load and PR tininess in the same week is how people collect pulley scares.
The ladder idea
Think in steps, not heroes:
- Own a depth: clean sets, stable grip, skin recovers between sessions.
- Add load on that depth until progress slows for a few weeks.
- Introduce the next smaller progression edge at a reduced relative intensity.
- Build the smaller edge up; keep the larger edge as a check-in, not a daily max.
Macro steps cover meaningful depth changes. Micro steps fill the gaps so you are not forced from "comfortable" to "cruel" in one leap. Exact millimeter labels matter less than consistency: same tool, same orientation, same logging habit.
A simple 6-week depth progression block
Assumes: you can already train productively on a mid-depth edge (for many people, high teens to ~20mm+).
- Weeks 1–2: 2×/week strength on current depth. 5×6–8s. Log load.
- Weeks 3–4: Keep one day on reference depth. Second day: next smaller progression edge at ~70–85% of the effort quality you use on the big edge (not 100% hero sets). 4–5×5–8s.
- Weeks 5–6: If smaller edge sets are clean, nudge load or hold quality up. If skin or joints complain, hold depth steady and only adjust load on the larger edge.
Deload a week if the smaller edge leaves residual joint noise. Depth work is not a purity test.
How this pairs with a dual edge block
A Dual Edge Block gives you two useful depths on one tool, useful for a main and a secondary grip in one session. Progression edges extend that idea across more rungs when two depths are not enough, or when you want dedicated steps for a long min-edge arc.
Practical split:
- Numbers day: dual edge or fixed reference depth, track load.
- Geometry day: progression step, lower absolute load, high quality.
Logging that makes progression real
Write four things every session: edge depth (or product name), grip (half crimp / open hand), load, hold time × sets. If you only write "felt hard," you will re-guess next month. When you look back at six weeks, you want to see either higher load at the same depth or equal quality at a smaller depth, not a blur of random blocks.
Common mistakes
Do
- Own a depth for a block
- Change one dial at a time
- Log edge mm every session
Don’t
- Skip rungs mid-week
- Add weight and shrink depth same week
- Chase pain as progress
- Skipping rungs because a friend trains 8mm.
- Matching load from a big edge onto a small edge on day one.
- Daily min-edge with no reference lift to show whether you are actually stronger.
- Ignoring skin until it forces a week off that you could have planned.
The point
Smaller edges are a tool, not a moral achievement. Progression edges turn "go smaller" into a system: known steps, controlled intensity, numbers you can defend. Train the rung you own. Earn the next one. Leave the cliff jumps for the boulder problems.